Ness is Best!

Saturday, 1st December 2007, Manchester Evening News

Neil Sowerby heads north on a culinary adventure and finds his efforts rewarded with some fine food and gorgeous views.

Ness is easier, the legendary Loch haunted by monster anoraks. We gave all that a miss when we stayed at Fort Augustus at the southern end, where the long, dark inlet channels into the Caledonian Canal via a five-lock ‘staircase’. Our base there was an enterprising, refurbishment-in-progress hotel, with impeccable green credentials –The Lovat Arms. It stands on the site of Kilwhimen Barracks, one of four Hanoverian forts built to pacify the highlanders after the 1715 and 1719 Jacobite uprisings.
The west curtain wall of the old fort, four metres high in places with gun embrasures, still stands in the hotel grounds.

This old station hotel, our taxi driver told us with grim understatement, was “a bit down on her luck, laddie” when the current owners took over. That’s all changed, thanks to the ethical commitment of Caroline Gregory, whose family also own the highly regarded Loch Torridon hotel.

Lovat’s 29 attractive en-suite rooms are fitted with a new computerised central heating system (to save heat-loss) with energy provided by the ecofriendly
bio-mass wood chip burner. The environmental policy also included the likes of
energy-saving lamps, “ecofriendly” cleaning products and an intensive recycling policy. Fear not, though, this is no spartan regime. There are lots of modern design touches and extras, but the Lovat Arms retains a homely charm with roaring fires and fun staff. Food in the large, bright bar/brasserie, while some distance from Three Chimneys ambition, is among the best for miles. We had a lovely hospitable time that evening and, clearing our heads, next morning.

Fort Augustus is on The Great Glen Way, a 73-mile waymarked path from Fort William
to Inverness. We got a lift eight mile up the lochside A82 to Invermoriston
and, after much detouring due to path subsidence, ascended to the Way, high
above Ness for an amble back to our base on a morning of scudding clouds and lark song.

And, at the end of our journey, the canalside Lock Inn provided a foaming pint of Skye. But not the Beast, alas. Forget the Monster, beware the Beast!

Dinner, B&B at the Lovat costs from £98 per room per night for a minimum two nights. Their three-day New Year break includes afternoon tea on arrival, cocktail reception, five-course gourmet dinner, champagne toast, entertainment and
fireworks. £367.50 per person.
For full rates ring 01456 459250 lovatarms-hotel.com)