In the News

LOVAT - JUST LOVE IT
08:50 - 17 November 2007
Press & Journal
I Would like readers to think it's my fabulous investigative skills which allow me to reveal the following about the Lovat Arms Hotel, Fort Augustus.

Last month was a hectic time, what with a wedding, an 80th birthday celebration and a fundraising Playboy-themed party taking place.Keen to know the secrets of head chef Jim Murphy's delicious Baked Fillet of Lochaber Salmon and Cassoulet? I can reveal that, too.

By now, you may be thinking one of two things: this restaurant spy is really good or - and this is far more likely - the spy has logged on to the hotel's website. These days, any restaurant worth its low-sodium salt has a website allowing potential diners the opportunity to give the menus the once over.Two items made the Lovat's website better than most. First, it included a "blog" - a chatty news page revealing, in a homely style, details of recent and forthcoming events at the hotel. Secondly, and very unusually, it had a page of downloadable recipes for a two-course dinner party for four people.In a world where hi-tech, instant information is king, it's a brilliant idea and certainly helped persuade my little party of three that it would be worth making the trip along the beautiful, but rather twisty, road from Inverness to Fort Augustus.

While the website may be uber-modern, I was delighted to find that the family-run Victorian hotel is not and retains much of its original charm and character.The first recorded date of the Lovat Arms being a hotel is thought to have been in 1869. Since then, it has provided hospitality for generations of visitors and locals alike and witnessed lots of change. The most recent took place earlier this year when Caroline Gregory, manager of the hotel and daughter of owners David and Geraldine, oversaw a total refurbishment which introduced hi-tech and chic style but kept lots of the old-world charm.

We opted for the promotional Dine Around menu, which offers three courses for £25. As the hotel has just received its first AA rosette, it seemed good value for money.When our meal was ready, we were shown into the formal dining-room, a charming traditional room simply decorated and furnished with objects d'art and a lovely grand piano topped with framed family photographs.

As we tucked into a selection of warm rolls, our starters arrived. Two of us plumped for the smoked Lochaber salmon served atop a warm blini with creme fraiche, lemon and a caper and endive salad, while the younger member had the spring roll stuffed with shredded duck and bean sprout served with a hoi sin dressing.The salmon, lots of generously cut slices with a strong, almost peat-smoke, flavour, was superb and went beautifully with the crisp salad.Spring rolls can be dull as dishwater, but this new version of an old Oriental favourite was highly praised, both for the lightness of the batter and the sweet, tenderness of the duck. For mains, I ordered the fillet of pork, my partner requested stuffed chicken and my son the best end of Highland lamb.

The sweet smell of the roasted lamb wafted across the dining-room, whetting our appetites and making me wish I'd ordered this dish instead.Thankfully, our family policy of always trying a little of each other's dishes meant I did get a wee taster.The lamb, tender and beautifully pink on the inside, was served with clapshot, Lochaber haggis, roast cherry tomatoes and a rosemary and malt whisky jus. A feast for the eyes and taste buds alike, it looked every inch an award-winner.My partner's roast chicken, stuffed with spinach, garlic and Parmesan cheese and accompanied by champ potato, peppered leeks and sweet pea puree, was also declared a winner - although the puree was rather like posh mushy peas. My pan-roasted fillet of pork came with braised Savoy cabbage, pancetta, herb-roasted potatoes and a flavoursome Madeira jus. It's a long time since I've seen cabbage on a menu, possibly because it's not the sexiest veg on the block, but its absence made its return all the more welcome.My pork was slightly dry - more to do with my preferences than the chef's skills - and I could have done with a splash more gravy, but that aside, it was very good, especially when washed down with a warm glass of Shiraz.

From the sweet menu, I was tempted by the sound of the sticky toffee pudding served with cream and a rum and vanilla toffee sauce. The pud was as light as a feather and there was just enough rum in the sauce to raise it to the next level. The contented sighs coming from my companions let me know the caramelised lemon cream tart, served with raspberry water ice and berry coulis, and the chef's extra creamy cheesecake were hitting the spot, too.

Our bill for three meals, plus two soft drinks and a glass of red wine, came to £84.70. The Dine Around offer ends on November 30 and meals must be pre-booked.